The textile industry is both a cause of and a key to solving the challenges posed by climate, nature and chemicals. Devold has therefore decided that its thick and medium-thick woollen garments, such as the iconic Islander sweaters, are to bear the Nordic Swan Ecolabel. The rollout is well under way.
“As owners, we need to think beyond the next report. We knew that stricter requirements are on the way and chose to stay ahead of the curve. This is about securing Devold, and our fundamental values, for the future,” says Maria Lilly Flakk, co-owner of Devold and Board member, who was also on the Board when the strategy was adopted in 2023.
“This isn’t a green pilot, but a genuine change in the whole production process. We know it works, and are moving straight to implementation. It’s an investment in the future of Devold,” says Øystein Vikingsen Fauske, CEO.
Work is under way in parallel to ecolabel both workwear and merino wool with the EU Ecolabel, an equivalent ecolabel that is most widespread in the EU. The choice of ecolabel depends on where in the world the wool is processed and the type of wool.
“When the requirements come from the outside and are developed by industry experts, it forces us to push ourselves further, prioritise correctly and not avoid difficult issues. What we’re doing now, we hope others will copy,” says Trude Ertresvåg, Chief Sustainability Officer at Devold.
Strict requirements mean garments for generations
It’s a long way from pasture to store. The value chains are complex, and the process involves a lot of chemicals, water and energy.
“It’s admirable to see Devold working so systematically and involving all levels. There’s an urgent need for the textile industry to make the transition, which means that we need to consume less, while also managing resources better. Devold is setting the standard in the industry,” says Cathrine Pia Lund, Managing Director of Nordic Swan Ecolabel in Norway, which manages the Nordic Swan Ecolabel and the EU Ecolabel in Norway.
Prepared for the Greenwashing Directive
Studies show that consumers want to buy quality products that have less impact on climate and the environment, but that confidence is low in the green claims made by companies. There will soon be an end to such empty green promises, and the EU’s Greenwashing Directive is expected to be ready by the summer. The directive aims to protect consumers from greenwashing by requiring reliable, comparable and verifiable information, and credible labelling schemes.
“We want to be ahead of the curve when it comes to new EU legislation on production, documentation and communication,” says Ertresvåg.
Short path from decision to action
Devold owns its own factory and co-owns a dye works. Production takes place in-house – from yarn to finished garment. This means a short path from decision to action.
“After almost three decades at Devold, I know that it’s our team that makes this possible. We combine tradition with the ability to get things done, and that’s what makes us robust,” says Tor Jonsson, Factory Manager at Devold.
The Nordic Swan Ecolabel requirements:
To be approved for the Nordic Swan Ecolabel, manufacturers must meet over 100 different environmental requirements, including stringent requirements for chemicals, energy and water consumption, and working conditions. The requirements include the following:
- Pure wool without contamination from pesticides and insecticides on animals or grazing areas
- Ban on the mulesing of sheep
- Wool must be washed and dyed without harmful chemica
- Efficient use of water and energy in production processes
- Garments must have documented good quality
- Ban on incinerating unsold clothes
- The supplier must comply with the ILO’s requirements for decent working conditions
About the process/About Devold:
Devold is now implementing a change throughout the production process, which is why garments in store will still not have the Nordic Swan Ecolabel logo for a transitional period, as products made before the licence was approved will be distributed first, in line with normal stock flows.
About the Nordic Swan Ecolabel:
The Nordic Swan Ecolabel is the official ecolabel in the Nordic region, created by the authorities to provide consumers and buyers with credible environmental information. The Nordic Swan Ecolabel is a holistic labelling scheme that considers all relevant environmental and climate issues in the life cycle. Only goods and services that meet ambitious requirements for climate, chemicals, biodiversity and the circular economy are certified.
Read more about the Nordic Swan Ecolabel here.
